By Christopher Louis Romaguera
It is March, and we are in a pandemic, and I have been writing dark things all morning: about my family’s exile from Cuba, about dead friends in Miami, about ghosts in Patagonia, and some poorly written things about COVID-19. I turn my phone on to see my parents make another plea for me to come back to Miami, to my first home. I am in New Orleans and am not able to fully isolate, and my parents are at-risk, and it is an argument that goes round and round.
I
have lived in New Orleans for about a decade. This is my second home. Even my
sister lives here now. But so many of my peoples and family still live in
Miami. With the COVID-19 pandemic in the early stages in the states, it is hard
to know where to hole up. Would either feel like home without my peoples in it?
Or just a cemetery of one?
I
run to break up my days. Most mornings I lock myself away in my room, sipping
on cafecitos or cortaditos, working on various projects. I run to break up the
writing, to return to the page fresh, I run to get out of my head, to return to
my body, or I run to return to the outside world, to no longer be in the deep
darkness in my head, ready for hugs and daps with all our peoples as I cross
the street, ready for a shot and a drink with my peoples in the corner of our
bar.
Before
the pandemic, I worked on the busiest music street in New Orleans. For the past seven years, I’ve worked
at the Spotted Cat Music Club. On days I worked long hours after writing long
hours, I wouldn’t get my run in, but I would listen to the band, bobbing my
head and making it through the night. Sometimes I’d send Pops a video of a song
he liked. The music was my reentrance into the world those days. The music was
how I’d avoid getting too deep into my head with darker thoughts. So, at The
Spotted Cat, we’d throw one of the biggest music parties on the street, in the
city, with my friends providing the music, me providing the one-liners and a
drink within 30 seconds.
With
the pandemic, I am out of work, and while I can still write, I still need my escape.
I think of Andy J Forest, who opened the Spotted Cat with me for years, and I
hear his song “Bartender Friend”, which goes: “When I get to work, I feel at
home, always someone there, someone I know, and everybody, says hello.” And I
miss that vibe so much. So I make a playlist and tie my Cuban flag bandana over
my face and head to Frenchmen, to run through the streets I’ve worked on for a
decade, to run through the streets where I’ve seen all my peoples and made so
many memories.
As
a kid in Miami, I watched my father run after work. He would come home
refreshed, like he had sweated out the venom put inside him by the outside
world. When I got older, I’d run with him too. Sometimes we’d have headphones
on, listening to our own songs or mixes we made for each other. Sometimes we’d
run and talk. Sometimes we’d run and hear nothing but the sounds of our steps,
whether we were at the beach, in our hood, or somewhere between. Didn’t matter
if I explicitly told him about every basketball failure, every fight I did or
didn’t get into that I should or shouldn’t have, every broken heart, every
botched drug deal, every everything. And it didn’t matter if he told me of
every pain that cropped up from memories of Cuba, or his mom, or his dad, or
every struggle he faced working in Miami to support our family. We were in
sync, in rhythm. Running helped us both just be in the moment, in this world, helped
us return back home.
I
think of the “suicides” we used to run to end basketball practices with.
Suicides being sprints up and down the court, first stopping on a dime at the
foul line, tapping the line with our hand, before sprinting back to the
baseline, tapping that line, then sprinting back to the three point line,
making our way farther and farther out each time. You felt this drill in your
knees, you felt this drill in your fingertips, the asphalt courts you practiced
on imprinted your hands. For practices to end, you’d have to finish the
suicides, then go to the free throw line and drain a couple of shots. If you missed
yours, the team ran. If one of them missed, we ran. It wasn’t just the
completing of the sprint, it was keeping your wits, it was being sound of body,
being solid, still in breath, to get the work done, to shoot your shot and go
home, knowing at even your most tired, back against the wall, you can do the
damn thing.
I
know I run partly cause I don’t know how to talk about COVID-19, about the fear
I have of going to Miami to help my family and being one of the asymptomatic
ones that has it. Of the fear I have of this virus taking more and more of the
people we need now more than ever. How we lost a culture bearer and a neighbor
and a friend in Mr. Ronald Lewis, and how we can’t secondline or celebrate him
for a while longer. How mournful celebrations put us all at-risk.
No
other cars on the road, I stand on Frenchmen Street, staring at Washington
Square Park. I listen to “Out on the Rise”, recorded by The Deslondes, composed
by Sam Doores, who is fam to me. The song talks about last calls and closing bars,
but I have heard him play it when we lived in the house by the river often, and
I have heard him play it a lot of late, as it just seems to make sense for a
world that has an indefinite last call. I think of how it is my father’s
favorite song of Sam’s. Pops always getting the line “but I’ve never been so
good at that” stuck in his head. I start to wonder if I’ve never been good at
this. I start to wonder if I’m not being good enough for my family? Should I be
heading down, in case something bad happens virally or societally? Or will
these thoughts make me go back home, and spread something lethal to my family
and loved ones?
I
stretch my leg using the gate of the park. My head turns side-to-side, looking
to see if someone comes too close, or more hopefully, for a friend. I think of
a phrase an old roommate used to always tell me anytime I’d call or pop up,
that I was “gonna live a long time, I was just thinking about you.” I want to
see my friends turn the corner, because I’m lonely and miss them. I want to see
my friends turn the corner; cause I want them to know I’m thinking of them.
Cause I want them to live a long time. Cause I want to be a part of that
longevity. But I’m happy not to see them, cause that actually means a better
chance of us all living a long time. Right now, the absence is a promise of
presence in the future. Right now, loneliness is love. But the loneliness still
deepens a sense of loss.
Sam
croons, “And how come all my closest friends, are so far away.” And I think of
how he is isolated in the west coast. How some of my closest friends, are so
far away. How the ones in the city that I can’t see, feel even farther away.
And how this is my situation. Stuck in a broken and incomplete home. Separated
from another broken and incomplete home.
Across
the street is the Christopher Inn Apartments, which houses seniors and the
disabled. I think of some of them coming into the bar to hit their tambourine
with the band, some coming with plastic bags for ice to keep their beers cool
outside, avoiding the chaos of the bar, but still within earshot of the band. I
think of them always bringing us food whenever they barbeque. I think of all
the sidewalk parties they had, with their easily folded chairs, of how when I
turned the corner for work, I’d see them all lined up, I’d give them all hugs
and kisses and fives and handshakes, like I was being introduced as a starter
with the baddest bench in the city lined up for me. I think of how many times
we saw an ambulance block traffic on the street, in front of the apartments,
and we all would check in with our peoples who lived there. Now, I see people
at the help desk with flimsy masks and gloves. I read reports that residents
and employees there tested positive for COVID-19. I talked to bartender friends
who mentioned seeing some of our peoples on the street the night before the
shelter in place order, drinking and dancing, saying “Don’t worry baby, we
gonna be alright.” I wonder how many ambulances have been there with no traffic
to block, and how broken I will be if the street isn’t lined up and down the
sidewalk the first day we all get back.
I
sprint down the street, and hear Panorama Jazz Band’s version of “Norma de la
Guadalajara” come on. I think of how many late Saturday night shifts I’ve
entered the Spotted Cat, hearing this song, almost like my musical introduction
to the bar, me tipping my hat at the band, Ben Schenck going crazy on the
clarinet, doing his dance, making his way through the crowd, a tip bucket in
hand, following me like I was a fullback. I think of Aurora Nealand killing it
on her saxophone, and how I’d follow her and this band up and down the streets
of Mardi Gras, making it from the Marigny through the Seventh Ward to the
French Quarter and back to Frenchmen.
I
think of all the times I’d hear my name, and give someone a squeeze or a kiss.
I look at all the boarded up buildings that are closed. I wonder how many will
come back with different owners or staffs or bands, and then just feel
different, be different. I wonder how many won’t come back, remembering how
Café Rose Nicaud had been emptied out before the pandemic hit. Wondering how
many of my memories in there, writing and coffee-ing before work, will be
boarded up. I wonder how much my memory will create boards for all the people
I’m missing. I wonder how many of those memory boards will stay up, stay blank,
from people who won’t make it back. I wonder if my memory boards will bleed
into the scenery, if I will even stop seeing the boards themselves. I wonder
how many of us knew the residency was over, but still expected to see Ellis
Marsalis at Snug Harbor again. Hear him miss New Orleans one more time before
we missed him.
I
think of how I don’t know when the street will return, or when I will return to
the street. I think of how I don’t know how I’ll be able to pay for my life
again. I think of how I was so paranoid my last bartending shift that I kept
washing my hands over and over again, so much so that my hands started to dry
up, crack, and bleed.
I
want to sprint down the street for one final time before going into the French
Quarter proper, changing the scenery and hopefully avoiding the dark curve of
my mind, when I see Miss Sophie Lee on the balcony of 3 Muses. She is the owner
of the music club, an amazing musician and singer, a former neighbor and a dear
friend. She also has been working from the club this week, chilling on the
balcony, and taking photos of shirtless dudes running up and down (and she has
now included me in that number.) We laugh and joke from balcony to street, no
cars to dodge, on the same corner where I once put on a dress and danced in a music
video for her song, “Lovely In That Dress.” When she goes back to work, I warm
back up, listening to that song, and remembering laughing so hard that not even
my bandana could have fully covered my smile. This was a home.
I
hear Sarah McCoy’s “New Orleans” as I do my version of “Dancing Down Decatur
Street”. The haunting keys play as I go up the never-empty street that is now
emptied out. I run down the empty French Market, past all the ghosts of vendors
and tourists that would usually be a flowing vein from the French Quarter to
Frenchmen.
I
think of how sometimes Frenchmen Street wore on me, how sometimes, I’d only
clock in and out for my shifts, but not make it to my friends’ shows, needing
the break from the people, the noise. I remember McCoy’s last show at the
Spotted Cat, how I showed up on the way to class and stood by a column, almost
hiding, having a beer, as friends asked if the bartender was sick or something,
if I was going to fill in or something. I remember how good that set was, her
singing with no mic, amplified out of a bucket, voice booming between whatever
little space was left between all of us who filled in the bar to say goodbye. How
we were all happy to see her go get gigs in France, even if we missed her
already, even if I missed never getting the chance to grab drinks with her
before she left, for we loved having her here, but we also loved our friends
sometimes escaping the city that forgot to care for its people. And even if her
leaving just for a little bit has become years and years now, we’re still happy
for her. But I fear that if I live just for a little bit, all the home I’ve
built here could be gone for years and years too.
I
sprint past the window at Molly’s at the Market, where I used to write with
Richard Louth and the New Orleans Writer’s Marathon. That window being the spot
where we all looked up and out in wonder and wrote. Using those moments to
write about what we saw, and letting it lead into what we felt. The last time
we were there, it was right before a hurricane was supposed to hit, the storm
wasn’t big, but it was early in the summer, and the river was high. There was
fear that it could topple the levee, and therefore topple the city and leave
little of us left. We talked about how pretty the day was, which we all knew
meant it was coming tomorrow, the occasional breeze whipping bev naps and
papers and thoughts around, as we all sipped watered down whiskey or rum,
wondering if we should go the way of the rocks.
I
think of how so many friends back home watched the news on the storm, and told
me to get out of town. How on one group chat where my Miami peoples were
telling me to leave town, leave my second home, my oldest friend on the chat interjected
with: “Come on now, you know if everyone is telling Chris to leave he’s
staying.” And I can’t tell if I was smart, or stubborn and stupid lucky. I
can’t tell if I’m being smart by staying now, or being stubborn and hoping to
be stupid lucky again.
I
worked at the Spotted Cat that night, the storm supposed to hit in the morning.
Joking about being the designated no-power/yes-hurricane bartender. I remember
how the friend I worked with sang, “Es viernes y el cuerpo lo sabe” as we had a
full bar on an otherwise empty street, in an otherwise quiet city. People
dancing and drinking their fears away, as me and my friend got sandbags and
boards ready during lulls between drink orders.
After
work that night, I got a Banh Minh from the bodega across the street, the reliable
one I assumed would never close for a disaster, the one that is closed with the
rest of us now, and how I walked a mile and a half home after I couldn’t fetch
a cab. How I sat on my levee, on the side they call “The End Of The World,” and
smoked a cigarillo, drank some rum, as the river crashed against the walls and
licked the bottom of my feet like a fire gasping for breath. I left the levee
that night knowing we would not get burned, this was not the one.
I
run a little loop down the Riverwalk, one dude threatens another dude with a
stick, saying “that’s why I keep this around, to protect me.” And think of how
that is part of the fear in this moment, there is no physical thing. A stick
won’t do shit to a hurricane, sure, but you can see the storm coming, you can
barricade the windows and sandbag the doors. But this virus could be all over
the stick, all over the spittle from his dehydrated mouth. If it’s licking my
feet as I run down the Riverwalk, I wouldn’t feel it, I wouldn’t know it, till
I got burned.
I
hear The Catahoulas’s “Shrimp and Gumbo”, a band I hear once a month on
Saturdays, and I think of what a privilege it is to hear Mr. Gerald French play
with so many of my friends. I run down to an empty Jackson Square, the kind of
place I typically don’t go to, but when I am here, I enjoy the brass bands playing,
I enjoy serpentining around tourists and the clueless in order to give my
peoples a squeeze, for impromptu dances with henna artists. How I love ducking
into old dusty secondhand bookstores on Orleans, and how I love coming out of
cigar shops with a fresh ember on a fresh cut cigar.
But
running here empty, I think of how Jackson Square was the place of protest. How
the Take ‘Em Down NOLA movement wanted Jackson removed for the 300th
anniversary of New Orleans. I think of the friend who got death threats before
that protest, David Duke stoking the fires of outsiders who were going to come
in to defend the monuments. I think of walking next to my friend that day,
wondering what would happen. I walked with him; cause I would want someone to
walk with me if I got that threat. I walked with him, cause I had the privilege
to even make that choice, so I had to make it forcefully. I think of our mutual
friend who got arrested during the protest, at the steps of Jackson, us having
more friends arrested than the people who threatened to kill some of us.
I
need to get out of my head, so I sprint faster. I think back on the suicides,
how we knew they were coming from the beginning of practice, how the hardest
part was always waiting for you, and how no matter how hard, you had to use
that as an advantage. You’re so tired, you can’t do anything but what you’ve
always done, clear minded, take your shot. I sprint, I tap the tile. I flick
off Jackson on his high horse every time I run by him. I run too fast to worry
about if one of the cowards who gave death threats will see me. I run too fast
to worry about COVID-19 for just a moment.
I
think of how Pops used to run cross country in Miami for high school, after
being a child exile from Cuba. How he taught me how to always end a run on a
sprint. To psychologically beat whoever or whatever I was running with. To
psychologically beat myself, and any fatigue I felt. Pops was so bad at
stretching before he ran, like he was always ready to run out of a situation,
but how he was so good at walking off the end of the run, to calm down and find
his equilibrium, before returning to the rest of the world, to us. Preparing
before returning to a rootless home. I think of how I have inherited that
practice, in my new home of New Orleans, where there were no roots before me.
I
slow down to Arsène DeLay’s “Coming Home”, which she wrote about coming back to
New Orleans. It is the song that my sister listened to as an anthem of sorts
when she got accepted into Tulane and joined me in town a couple of years ago.
I think of how I lived with DeLay for years, and heard that song play over and
over again. How it always makes me happy. I think of how New Orleans has become
a home for me, and my sister, but yet Miami still has so many of our peoples.
How severed that feeling can be in times of trouble, having two homes, no
roots.
I
catch myself thinking about my sister’s case with swine flu a decade ago. I was
still in Miami, but I don’t even remember it happening, being too high, or too
depressed, or too self-centered instead. How I didn’t even make it to the
hospital, how I barely even remember the episode. Am I just doing that all over
again by staying here? The run gets repetitive sometimes, and the questions
repeat too. Am I not being enough for my family? Should I be halfway down
already, in case something bad happens? Will these thoughts make me go back
home, and spread something lethal to my family and loved ones? Am I being
rightfully strong or willfully stupid?
I
run down Bienville, hearing Andy J Forest’s “My Excuse for Now.” I hear the
line, “Today I forgot to eat, last night I didn’t get much sleep.” And I
remember the friend of mine that inspired that line. And I think of how many
times I adopted that line while working on deadlines and going straight to the
early shift to work Andy’s set. Taking “cigarette” breaks in the alley to edit
pieces when on deadline. Forgetting to eat before a friend or a brother or a
love yelled at me to. Home.
I
see a man curled up in the door frame of a closed business like it was his own
personal nook, and I think of how I don’t know how to write about the musicians
and gig workers who are struggling with unemployment, struggling to make ends
meet, despite being the reason people come here. I don’t know how to write
about the one in four people who don’t have internet here to follow orders or
find information, just like I don’t know how to write about the one in five
that don’t have a car for drive-thru testing or groceries. I don’t know how to
write about what shelter-in-place means to the thousands of homeless who sleep
in the nooks and door frames of businesses that don’t open. I don’t know how to
write about the doctors and nurses and medical workers who are doing their best
to keep us from reaching our end with minimal medical resources, buying and
rigging their own PPE.
I
see a sanitation worker on the street and raise my hand to say hi. He nods back
at me. I think of how so many New Orleans cats laugh at me and my bandana that
covers my mouth, then wave and pound their chest, me doing the same, making up
for the lack of contact with each other by smacking our own bodies more,
harder, like our heartbeat had to break out of the cage. I think of how so many
tourists or people I’ve never seen before cross the street, as they’ve always
done, how they did before social distancing, and how it saves me the hassle of
serpentining around them and their possible contagions they chose to bring
here. I think of a friend from back home joking about how I should wear darker
color bandanas to buy groceries so that people would “socially distance” from
me. I think of how sad I got having to explain to my mom why I preferred pink
bandanas instead of black ones. About being at-risk outside of a virus.
I
run down Bourbon Street, it is quiet, and I see the Preservation Hall closed,
rusted gates locking up all the memories. I look inside and see a plastic cover
over a podium that briefly looked like the silhouette of a musician or
bartender sitting down, waiting for the day they can unlock the gates back to a
heaven. I listen to Hurray for the Riff Raff’s “The Body Electric” and think of
how gun sales are going up, how I read domestic violence calls are going up,
how I worry about the whole world being crazy, and those who can isolate from a
virus but not from their killers. I think of how I once saw Hurray for the Riff
Raff do a “secret” show with the Preservation Hall Jazz Band, being with my
sister and my homies, and seeing worlds collide and create something better
than what was before. I wonder if the world we were all on top of a year ago is
crumbling beneath our feet now.
I
run past the Hard Rock Casino that caved in, killing people, including some
undocumented late last year. I stop the music and I jog in place, looking for
the body that used to be visible from the street. I can’t find it, but I know
he’s there. Am I subconsciously blind to him? Selectively forgetting? I think
of how every intimate experience with death for me has always been accompanied
by silence, like I didn’t want to attach or associate a song to a death. I
think of how the presence of a white sheet never makes death absent. I think of
the blue tarp that they covered the undocumented man with, as if that made it
less obscene, as if they could further erase him. I wonder if they thought
putting a blue tarp on the dead would make him “disappeared.” As if changing
the color to blue would erase the violence to the naked eye. As if his color
hadn’t already made him invisible to so many.
I
run down Rampart Street and pass through Louis Armstrong Park as John Boutté’s
cover of Southern Man comes on. I think of how my family and I saw Boutté play at
a fall festival at the park, a place that was “gifted” to the community after
they constructed I-10 through it. Boutté talked about how the park “wasn’t
always ours,” and right as he said it, sirens blared, coming from somewhere by
the I-10, the echo of the underpass making it hard to know exactly where. Boutté
raised up a finger, as if he just got validation from the gods, before saying
how the community took the park back, how it’s theirs again, before he sang
Southern Man.
The wind howled and sirens blared and Boutté sung above it all, everything but his voice calmed down. I sprint hoping to hear a car pull up and honk, to see a friendly face. For I wouldn’t stop, but I’d turn around, running backwards, like a basketball drill and point at them through a cracking border, knowing they’ll be alive for a long time, and so will I. But I don’t hear it, I don’t see it, I don’t feel what I want to feel. So I sprint and see more National Guard congregating in front of a hotel and laughing, I catch another wind and sprint, stopping at the neutral ground and jumping up and down, like I did pre-regulation-games, nothing stopping my momentum. The cars pass and I sprint across the road, back to Frenchmen, back to home, wanting to finish my run on a sprint, like how Pops taught me, syncing up to the times that me and Pops would run, to the time where he runs alone now, on a treadmill for his knees, slowly, but syncing up all the same. I run because I need to, to get out of my head and to just trust my instincts, my shot. This pandemic is a big one, but it ain’t the one, and we going to make it, with or without help beyond ourselves, beyond our peoples, so I run, to clear my head, to listen to my peoples doing their thing, to shoot my shot, until the next time we can all take a shot together in the corner of a dive, when we won’t have to look forward or back to see our peoples, when we can fill the streets again, and I can return to my river, and take off the bandana and scars be damned, reveal my smile in whatever unveiled home I find myself in.
__________
Christopher Louis Romaguera is a Cuban-American writer who lives in New Orleans, Louisiana. He was born in Hialeah, Florida and graduated from Florida International University in Miami, Florida. Romaguera has been published in The Daily Beast, Curbed National, Peauxdunque Review, New Orleans Review and other publications. He is a monthly columnist at The Ploughshares Blog. He has an MFA in Fiction at the University of New Orleans. You can find him on Facebook at Christopher Louis Romaguera. Or on Instagram and Twitter @cromaguerawrite